Author: dacman

We were moved and motivated each day by Hem’s confidence in us and his delight in and acknowledgement of, our accomplishments.  We were never told enough to fear what was to come or we would have worried, sapping our strength, determination and enjoyment.  We always knew we’d make it. He is a brilliant trek leader who completely loves his work. He has everything it takes to have a trek be successful, from knowing the territory and choosing an excellent crew, to flawless planning and seamless adjustments to current realities. We were necessarily pushed hard, but with his constant vigilance, we were not endangered. What was most delightful was his low-key wisdom, thoughtfulness, even temperament, and subtle sense of humor. Continue reading Hem, Our Guide and Leader

Today’s long uphill hike was from Kagbeni to Muktinath and back. This was a major, sacred pilgrimage site for Hindus.  It still is, I’m told, but it looks to me to be more akin to a circus.  Everyone seems to be trying to make a buck, from the two minute, $10 motorcycle rides from the village up the hill to the shrine, to the trinkets, promises of Nirvana, and hard bargaining Sadhus (Holy men).  The scene was made absolutely perfect by having a dozen or more super-prosperous (read: fat) men running around in their tiny skivvies dunking themselves in holy water. One Indian man was repeatedly dunking his wife in the cleansing pool. It went on much longer than was seemly. This dipping is normally a voluntary act of submission to the Gods in exchange for having ones past wrongs and evils washed away.  Apparently, this gentleman thought his wife needed a bit of extra help in the cleansing process. Continue reading Kagbeni to Muktinath

As we start the long walk back toward “civilization” I laugh as I say, “This is the best morning of the trek!” The problem is, it was the best, just like yesterday. I feel twenty years younger.  We climbed mountains today with such ease and strength.  At the highest pass of the day, after a short rest, I challenged Hem to a race to the top of a small knoll above the pass. We didn’t make it because we were laughing too hard at our madness. Oh! To have the energy and playfulness to sprint uphill at a 13,000′ Tibetan pass. Continue reading Day XI, The Challenge

We are strong, fast, and feeling good. We covered ten miles in four hours, beating the pack mules and handlers to camp for the first time. Hiking at 2 1/2mph at 13,000′ is moving fast. Continue reading Day X, Lomanthang to Logekar

Today’s plan was simple: take a horseback ride to some ancient caves, have a picnic lunch and then ride back.

I’ve found each day the pain endured roughly matches the reward.  The horseback ride from 12,300′ up to 15,200′ was for me a continuously excruciating reminder that the Buddhists are right, life is suffering, at least that part of life spent on a somewhat competitive, ornery, bony Mustang pony with a thin blanket for a saddle. Continue reading Trek Day IX, From LoManthang to Thoser Village and Jhong Caves and Back.

The caves, all carved out of solid rock by hand, were home to the people of this area for thousands of years, though a bucket of water was often an hour’s walk away and firewood for cooking, even further.  These were not cavemen.  Their pottery was beautiful and Tibetan Buddhist beliefs deep.  The complex we explored was “just over the mountain” from Tibet/China.  It had 108 rooms on five levels accessed by interior ladders.  The ceilings were black with smoke and the floors inches deep in dust. Continue reading The Caves

Rocks, rocks, rocks.  I’ve never seen so many rocks, rocks with dozens of sparkling garnets, rocks with marble streaks, and round golden rocks by the billions.  I like rocks.  I’m fascinated by them.  Up here trekking, one has plenty of time to look at rocks.  Going up, down, or flat, every rock in the path has meaning, as either a place to step or something to avoid.  On a steeper uphill with no chance to look up, the six square feet of rock in front of you is your whole world, then the next six square feet, just a bit higher on the trail. Continue reading Day V, Rocks, Rocks, Rocks

This morning bed tea was delayed until 6:30 am to give all of us, crew, guides, and clients extra rest. As usual I was awake at 5 am.  It was light and I was ready to play.

We started the day with a visit to a 700 year old village monastery with only one small meditation room, men only.  The vibration was old, deep and sweet.  We just wanted to sit for hours and soak it in, but being on a remote, long distance trek allows for little flexibility.  Even the camping spot is set months ahead, each one dependent on the previous day throughout the trek. Continue reading Trek Day IV, A Wicked Pass

Nepal was still on strike when we were to fly from Pokhara to Jomsom.  The strike didn’t officially start this morning until 6:00 am, so our hotel van dropped us off at the airport in time to get back to the hotel before 6:00 am. Continue reading On to Jomsom

The general strike in Nepal was brought on because the government couldn’t agree on a Constitution and had missed several deadlines over a seven year period. A new deadline was fast approaching and the people were angry and on strike, warning the politicians of trouble to come if they didn’t get their job done this time. It began while we were leaving Kathmandu. The roads free of traffic except taxis and vans serving the tourists. All businesses were closed except, again, those related to the tourism industry. We caught our (late) flight to Pokhara and found the city totally shut down. The strike meant there were absolutely no motor vehicles in use, and all businesses were closed except hotels and restaurants. Continue reading The Strike